New Releases from Alto-Adige, March 2010

March, 2010:
More than a dozen wineries from Alto-Adige came to San Francisco in March to show off their new releases (see Susanna Gaertner’s article on www.epicurean-traveler.com for more details). I have just two general observations:
1. Despite the homogenization of wine styles and obliteration of a sense of terroir due the globalization of wine culture, there are a few places that continue to produce wines that truly and emphatically define their place of origin. Alto-Adige is one, and I should also give a nod here to the wines of Alsace and Germany. They all have something in common. Most of these wines are white. They rarely see oak, and if they do it is on a minimal level. They are also grown in areas where it is difficult to get the grapes overripe. Neither winemaking nor viticultural manipulation are allowed to interfere, and the resulting wines are pure expressions of terroir.
2. Despite the phenomenal quality of Alto-Adige wines, they are unfortunately rather expensive in the U.S. So if you really want to enjoy the wines of Alto-Adige, I recommend a visit to what may be the most beautiful wine country in all of the world (see my article on wine touring in Alto-Adige on www.epicurean-traveler.com).

Susanna is more eloquent than I in her notes on the tasting. Nonetheless, here are my impressions of some of the standouts from the recent tasting in San Francisco:

CANTINA SAN MICHELE APPIANO
St. Valentin
2008 Sauvignon:
Year after year my favorite Sauvignon Blanc, this vintage is a bit rounder and fuller than previous offerings, but with the same aromatic gooseberry and lime, dried herbs, and crisp acidity. $45
94 points.

St. Valentin
2007 Gewürztraminer:
A dry Gewürz with notes of litchi and yellow roses, crisp acidity and lovely balance. $45
92 points

2008 Pinot Grigio:
Crisp apples, a hint of rose petal, lovely balance — crisp yet silky, with a long finish. $18
90 points.

2007 Pinot Nero:
Lean and dry and yet fruity (cherry-cranberry), with complex mineral/earth undertones, great vibrancy and length. $20
93 points

2005 Lagrein:
Explosive nose of blackberry-cherry with underlying earth and minerality. It follows through to the palate with soft tannins, good structure and long finish. $20.
92 points.

TIEFENBRUNNER
2008 Chardonnay:
An elegant Chardonnay with no oak or malolactic character, just ripe apples and a hint of citrus. $15
88 points

2008 Kirchleiten, Sauvignon:
Crisp and intensely fruity with apple and tangerine flavors, dry and vibrant on the mid-palate, with fruit and mineral overtones through the long finish. $30
91 points

ABBAZIA DI NOVACELLA
2005 Praepositus Riserva Pinot Nero:
A hint of forest floor-mushroom under cherry aromas, lots of minerality, with a lovely aromatic finish of great length. Very elegant, if understated, but also a bit pricey. $60
91 points

TERLAN
2006 Vorberg Pinot Bianco:
Yellow apples and citrus with leesy-yeasty undertones, crisp, lean, dry and minerally. Very fine balance. $28
88 points

COLTERENZIO
2008 Lafoa Sauvignon:
Emphatic varietal character with crisp grapefruit, dried thyme and cat piss, vibrant on the mid-palate, intense through the finish. 15% barrel fermentation gives it a round feel. Nice but very expensive. $62
93 points

2007 Formigar Chardonnay:
This barrel fermented Chardonnay displays aromatic apple with a vanilla edge, very good balance and powerful finish. If you’re going to use oak, this is the way to do it. $58
89 points

2007 Cornell, Sigis Mundus Lagrein:
Dense blackberry-cherry, good acidity, noticeable but moderate tannin, elegant, understated, with good minerality through the long, long finish. Pricey. $64
90 points.

ALOIS LAGEDER
2008 Pinot Bianco Haberle:
Aromatic nose of golden apples with a floral edge, crisp acidity, silky texture, nicely balanced, with a light mineral character through the finish. Very elegant. $20
89 points

CANTINA BOLZANO
2008 Lagrein Perl:
Beautifully balanced, offering up complex aromas of sweet ripe Boysenberrys and blueberries that follow through to the palate with good acidity, soft tannins and minerality through the long finish. $24
92 points

H. LUN WINERY
2006 Bianco Sandbichler Cuvée:
A blend of 60% Pinot Bianco, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Riesling. Very complex and layered, serving up bright notes of tangerine, peach and apple. Beautfiully balanced, long and intense. $24
92 points

TRAMIN WINERY
2009 Chardonnay:
A straightforward non-oaked Chardonnay with vibrant apple character and fine balance. A real bargain at $14.
88 points

2009 Pinot Grigio:
Ripe apples with a hint of flowers, dry, balanced and exceedingly long. $15.
90 points

2008 Pinot Grigio Unterebner:
Medium-full bodied for a Pinot Grigio, with complex minerality and apple-citrus flavors. Excellent length, though a bit warm. $31.
90 points

Main Street Winery

There seems to be no shortage of good wine at the $10 price point (see my blog on Tempra Tantrum wines from Spain), but most of it is forgettable. With the introduction of the Main Street Winery label, sourced from premium growing areas around the state, the Trinchero family (Sutter Home, etc.) has set out to produce wines at $10 that offer a bit more than the usual over-ripe, low acid fruit bombs that are standard fare today. Here is the current lineup:

2008 Monterey County Sauvignon Blanc:
This is one terrific SB, full bodied yet tart, with citrus and gooseberry flavors, a bit of classic “cat piss” (if you have to ask, ignore the descriptor), subtle dried herbs and a long lemony finish with a mineral edge. Fine aromatics and balance. 92 points.

2008, Santa Barbara County (82%) / Monterey County (18%) Chardonnay:
Buttery, with appley fruit and a hint of caramel, velvety texture, full bodied, yet with pleasant acidity and a hint of mineral character. I’m astonished at the price of this wine, which delivers so much more than you’d expect at the price. Best served slightly chilled. 89 points.

2006, 54% Lake County, 24% Monterey County, 22% Santa Barbara County, Cabernet Sauvignon:
The dominant flavor of this light to medium-bodied Cab is black cherry, the oak is subtle, the tannins moderate, and there is a mineral edge to the finish. Pleasant enough, though the least varietally distinct of the Main Street line; it might be mistaken for a Merlot. 83 points

2006, 80% Monterey County, 8% Santa Barbara County, 7% Napa County, 5% Lake County, Merlot:
A lovely Merlot with aromatic black cherry fruit, faint notes of black pepper and vanilla, soft tannins, and classic structure. Dry, with some delicacy, this is a fine antidote to the port-like fruit bombs currently passed off as Merlot. 87 points.

2008, 97% Napa Valley, 3% Monterey County, Pinot Noir:
Dry, with forward scents of sandalwood and cherry. Lean and dry on the palate, with slight astringency and strawberry-cherry flavors. 84 points.